Hidden Patagonia
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Overview
Patagonia is vast, roughly twice the size of Spain and 150% the size of Texas. Most visitors barely scratch the surface and never see the incredible out-of-the-way landscapes that lay beyond a few iconic locations like Torres del Paine. While we love Torres for the Patagonian microcosm it represents, the lesser-known and little-visited Aysén region of Chile is a spectacular destination in its own right, home to soaring peaks, water-sculpted marble caves, pristine lakes, wild turquoise rivers, numerous glaciers descending from the expansive Northern Patagonian Ice Field, and the unique Valdivian forest ecosystem. This is the region of Patagonia that has been a secret refuge for luminaries and conservationists like the late Doug Tompkins (founder of The North Face), his wife Kris McDivitt Tompkins (former CEO of Patagonia), Yvon Chouinard (founder of Patagonia and Chouinard Equipment/Black Diamond), and notable photographers and mountaineers from the USA and Europe, all of whom chose the Aysén region as a second home. This place offers incredible opportunities for landscape, wildlife, and cultural photography, without the tour buses of the more heavily touristed Patagonian destinations. Put simply, the wild serenity, scenic splendor, and photographic potential will amaze you.
We are visiting in late Patagonian spring, when purple and yellow lupines, crimson Chilean firebush, and other wildflowers are in full bloom, the rivers are roaring, and the high peaks still wear veils of fresh snow. Our trip begins with arrival by air in Balmaceda, Chile, the location of the regional airport, with direct flights from the Chilean capital of Santiago. You will be met upon arrival by our top-notch local guide team, good friends we’ve worked with for many years. Then, transfer to Patagonia House, an elegant boutique lodge on a mountainside overlooking the regional capital of Coyhaique (population approx. 50,000). We’ll all gather there and then kick off our adventure with a festive welcome dinner to get to know everyone. The next morning after breakfast, we load up in our two spacious and comfortable vans, each with twelve seats (though each vehicle will only have seven people onboard: four participants, a photo leader, a local English-speaking guide, and a driver) plus plenty of extra room for gear and luggage, and proceed on the rest of our journey through the stunning landscape of Aysén. We will take helicopter flights to do aerial photography over the ice cap and its surrounding peaks, two boat excursions to photograph the naturally sculpted marble caves, and a full-day excursion by private pleasure cruise boat through the steep-walled fjords and among icebergs (and perhaps a whale or pod of dolphins if we are lucky) to the calving face of the Jorge Montt Glacier. See below for the full itinerary.
Justin Black and Jerry Dodrill will lead this small group of passionate photographers (limited to eight participants) on field sessions adapted to make the most of the best opportunities presented to us by light, landscape, wildlife, and weather each day, at an array of prime locations we have scouted in advance and photographed on several prior visits to the region. Emphasis will be on creative photography and hands-on mentoring in the field. We’ll photograph when the conditions and light are their best. We’ll also find time when light and weather aren’t as conducive for photography to gather for presentations on composition, light, visualization, technique, and digital workflow. We will also hold constructive group critiques of participant photographs and then head back out into the field to apply what we’ve learned.
The helicopter flights, with a full hour of air time for each guest, will offer doors-off photography over the peaks and glaciers of the spectacular Northern Patagonian Ice Field and Monte San Valentin. Morning and afternoon boat excursions take us to the spectacular Marble Caves on Lago General Carrera. A very comfortable enclosed private excursion boat will take us out for a full day to explore the fjords and visit the icebergs and calving face of the Jorge Montt Glacier. Our group vehicles will take us to spectacular locations that we have explored on prior visits. Some locations involve short hikes, but nothing particularly strenuous.
Each evening, we will gather for a nice dinner and some good Chilean wine. Then it’s off to bed to get some rest, as most mornings we’ll be out around 5:30am to take advantage of the incredible pre-dawn light (though inevitably, weather conditions on some mornings enable us to sleep a bit later). Breakfasts and lunches will be handled in relation to our photographic activities, served either at our accommodations or local restaurants, or in the field as a gourmet picnic.
Itinerary
Note: This itinerary includes activities by helicopter and boat that are weather sensitive, and as a result we have designed this itinerary to allow us the flexibility to align these activities with periods of suitable weather. While we do not expect the itinerary to change with regard to accommodations each night, activities described below may shift from one day to another in response to weather.
December 1 – 2: COYHAIQUE
Arrive in Coyhaique. After being greeted at the Balmaceda airport you will be transferred 45 minutes away to the our group’s modern boutique lodge, Patagonia House, perched in a commanding position above the town of Coyhaique, with views of the surrounding mountains and valley. Check in, relax, and get to know everyone at our festive group dinner.
The next morning we will depart pre-dawn to visit a vast volcanic landscape on a private ranch where Andean Condors commonly congregate in numbers on cliff edges over a river gorge. We plan to be in position as the Condors take flight for the day. We will then make a circuit of the mountains and lakes surrounding Coyhaique to introduce you to the stunning beauty and diverse geography of the region. In the afternoon, we will turn our lenses toward photographing a favorite location in the local landscape, followed by a gourmet dinner by our private chef.
Overnight Patagonia House (D/B,L,D)
December 3 – 5: PUERTO RIO TRANQUILO
In the morning we will depart for Lago General Carrera, or Chelenko as known by its indigenous name, via the Carretera Austral (Southern Highway). This scenic journey will take us from the edge of the famous Patagonian Steppe over the shoulders of Cerro Castillo, through the deep Valdivian forests along the Murta River Valley and into the great basin of snow-capped peaks and azure waters of Lago Chelenko. We will check into our lodge at the lakeside village of Puerto Rio Tranquilo before our next adventure. Time and weather permitting we may have an opportunity to visit the Marble Caves for an evening shoot. Dinner will be at one of our favorite local restaurants.
The next morning we will rise early and head west towards the Rio Exploradores and the northern reaches of the Monte San Valentin massif and the northern ice fields to capture morning light. We will also have the opportunity to walk on the glacier itself and do some close-up shots of ice with the mountains in the background. If the weather over the San Valentin Massif and Northern Patagonian Ice Field is good in the afternoon, we will likely begin helicopter operations to do aerial photography. Two guests will board each hour-long doors-off flight, accompanied by either Justin or Jerry and the highly experienced pilot. The next two days offer opportunities to fly during windows of good weather as well, so we will keep the schedule flexible. If we don’t fly this afternoon, we will head to a secret location on the south shore of Lago General Carrera for photo ops of evening light on the lake and mountains, with a fantastic “asado” barbecue set under the bright stars of Patagonia.
On our final morning in the Tranquilo area, we will photograph dawn light over the lake followed by a three-hour excursion by boat to photograph the incredible Marble Caves. After lunch and a rest back at the lodge we will return to the Marble Caves in the evening for an additional shoot, followed by dinner at another favorite restaurant.
Overnight El Puesto (B,L,D)
December 6 – 7: VALLE CHACABUCO
After a hearty breakfast at the lodge, we will continue our journey south, deeper into the wild heart of Patagonia. Along the way will encounter the famous crystal clear waters of the Baker river flowing from its origins in Lago Bertrand and Lago Chelenko. We will make a short walk to photograph the confluence of the Rio Neff and mighty Baker where the Baker takes it first significant step down through the Baker Canyon before dumping out into Valle Grande on its way south towards the Pacific. We will then move on to Valle Chacabuco, our next spectacular destination. Here, we will make the most of the many Maulins (wetlands) where swans, flamingos, and Guanacos congregate. We should find ample opportunities to catch the famed Andean Condor soaring among the cliffs to the south, and for those of us who have extra patience, we can go to the local Viscacha colony to shoot these elusive rock dwellers. Valle Chacabuco was once home to the largest sheep farms in Chilean Patagonia, but is now undergoing an environmental rehabilitation. Under support from Doug and Kris Tompkins and many other philanthropic groups, including Patagonia clothing and Conservación Patagónicas, the ranch and its 400,000 hectares is undergoing a transformation into one of the most beautiful regions of Patagonia, freeing it from fences and invasive species.
Overnight Bordebaker Lodge (B,L,D)
December 8 – 10: TORTEL
Today we will set out for our the southernmost point on our journey, to the quaint fishing village of Caleta Tortel. Along the way we will stop for a picnic before we head south along the shoulders of the towering San Lorenzo Massif, the largest mountain in the region. This will take us through lush Valdivian rainforest, with excellent opportunities to photograph along the way. The culturally significant waterfront outpost of Tortel is connected by a system of wooden walkways built of the local Guaitecas Cypress giving it a very distinctive feel. This community is located at the mouth of the Baker river and will complete our survey of the Baker having visited the origin in Lago Chelenko and now visiting its terminus at the Pacific Ocean.
After breakfast the following day, we will board our very comfortable 16-meter private excursion vessel to explore the fjords of the Patagonian Archipelago beyond the outpost of Tortel. This day-long journey will take us past icebergs, waterfalls, primeval forest, and soaring peaks to the calving face of the huge Jorge Montt Glacier (covering 464 square kilometers). We will have ample opportunity to photograph ice and surrounding environs before heading back to the village of Tortel. We may even cross paths with a pod of Chilean dolphins along the way.
On our last day in Totel, we plan to shoot in morning light along its very photogenic maritime waterfront, and then make the most of the many excellent opportunities easily accessed in the vicinity of Tortel, including Valdivian rainforest scenes, waterfalls, views across the Rio Baker and the surrounding mountains.
Overnight Entre Hielos Lodge (B,L,D)
December 11: BAKER RIVER
Today we begin our trip back north. As we retrace our route, we will have ample opportunities to photograph compelling locations bypassed on the way down, or revisit locations in different light and weather conditions. In the afternoon, we will arrive at Green Baker Lodge, on the banks of the Baker River with plenty of opportunities for evening light on the azure waters of the Baker.
Overnight Green Baker Lodge (B,L,D)
December 12 – 13: LAGO NEGRO
We will continue heading north along the western shore of Lago Chelenko towards the Leones Valley, the eastern shoulders of San Valentine and the quaint village of Guadal. In the evening we will head to the Maqui waterfall to photograph evening light, the lake, and mountainscapes.
We will rise early the next morning to shee the morning sunrise, with expansive views of Lago General Carrera and the many mountain peaks along its shores. After breakfast at the lodge will embark on a day trip to Lago Leones and the Loenes Glacier by jet boat.
Ovenight Hacienda Tres Lagos (B,L,D)
December 14 – RETURN TO COYHAIQUE
On this, our final full day in Patagonia, we will wake early to catch the light and then drive north to return to Coyhaique. We will stop several times along the way to take advantage of photography opportunities. Once in Coyhaique we will settle back into the comfortable Patagonia House and enjoy a final celebratory meal as a group.
Overnight Patagonia House (B,L,D)
December 15 – DEPARTURE DAY
After breakfast, you will be transferred to Balmaceda to catch your flights back to Santiago and home. If you have a later flight you can explore Coyhaique (or shop for any last-minute souvenirs) before being transferred to the airport. (B)
Instructors
Justin Black
- JUSTIN BLACK is a photographer, writer, editor, expedition leader, photo workshops instructor, a Fellow of the International League of Conservation Writers (ILCW), a former executive director of the International ...
Jerry Dodrill
- Jerry Dodrill has been an award-winning professional photographer and highly regarded photography teacher for more than two decades. A protégé of the late legendary adventure photographer Galen Rowell ...
Gallery
Pricing
PRICING AND OCCUPANCY
All prices are per person.
This workshop is priced for either single-occupancy, or a pro-rated double occupancy rate for participants traveling together. At present, we are not pairing individuals who are not traveling together in the same room due to the coronavirus pandemic, so if you are an individual traveler and have not already made arrangements to room with another participant, please select single-occupancy registration.
PAYMENT SCHEDULE
- 30% deposit is required upon registration
- 30% installment payment is due on May 1, 2023
- 40% final payment due August 1, 2023
Click here to review our payment, cancellation and refund policies; as well as terms and conditions for participation.
All other terms and conditions apply. Please review the terms and conditions even if you have particpated in previous Visionary Wild programs so that you are aware of current policies.
INCLUSIONS
- Attentive and generous expert photographic instruction throughout by Justin Black and Jerry Dodrill
- 14-nights lodging at best-available accommodations from the afternoon of Decemeber 1 to the morning of December 15, 2023
- Helicopter flights to do doors-off aerial photography over the massive Northern Patagonian Ice Field and dramatic Monte San Valentin
- Private boat excursions to Marble Caves on Lago General Carrera (at least 2 and possibly 3 depending on conditions and group interest)
- Private boat excursion to Jorge Montt Glacier
- All ground transportation included from arrival to departure at Balmaceda Airport
- All meals and snacks (including our famous Patagonian picnic lunches)
- All beverages (including excellent Chilean wines and beers with dinner)
- Services of expert local guides and helpful support staff
EXCLUSIONS
- All travel expenses necessary to arrive at our starting point at the airport in Balmaceda, Chile, and all ongoing travel expenses from drop off at Balmaceda airport at the end of our itinerary.
- Cost of passports, visas, etc.
- Travel insurance, and travel medical/evacuation insurance (emergency medical and evacuation insurance are required for this expedition)
- Gratuities for local guides and drivers
- Personal purchases and gear
- Alcoholic beverages not served by your hosts at lunch or dinner
Highlights
- One of the world’s least-visited but most spectacular landscapes: Andean peaks, the azure waters and marble caves of Lago General Carrera, the Northern Patagonian Ice Field, scenic Chacabuco Valley, the wild river gorges of Rio Baker and Rio Pascua, icebergs, glaciers, spring wildflowers, lakes, waterfalls, fjords, and magnificent Patagonian light.
- Wildlife: Andean grey foxes, endangered huemul deer, Andean condors, Darwin’s rhea, black-chested buzzard eagles, flamingos, and guancos (wild ancestors of llamas).
- Helicopter flights to do doors-off aerial photography over the massive Northern Patagonian Ice Field and dramatic Monte San Valentin (one hour of flight time per guest)
- Boat excursions to the stunning Marble Caves on Lago General Carrera (at least two four-hour outings, conditions permitting)
- Full-day boat excursion through the fjords and icebergs to Jorge Montt Glacier
- Small group limited to eight participants
- Attentive and effective instruction and support throughout by Justin Black and Jerry Dodrill
- Local support by our first-rate team of experienced guides and drivers
- Creativity and visualization: learn to find new and unexpected compositions
- Advanced field techniques for landscape, wildlife, and aerial photography
- Breaking through creative block and making great photographs in visually overwhelming situations
- All-inclusive from Balmaceda, Chile
Accommodations
Accommodations for this expedition have been selected to maximize photographic opportunities, and for their comfort. Accommodations include:
- Patagonia House, Coyhaqiue (3 nights)
- El Puesto (3 nights)
- Bordebaker Lodge (2 nights)
- Entre Hielos Lodge, Caleta Tortel (3 nights)
- Green Baker Lodge, Baker River (1 night, elevation 12,162 ft / 3,707m)
- Hacienda Tres Lagos, Lago Negro (2 nights)
Travel
Expectations
THIS EXPEDITION SUPPORTS THE PATAGONIAN FOUNDATION
Back in 2010, while Visionary Wild founder Justin Black was serving as Executive Director of the International League of Conservation Photographers, he was approached by The Patagonian Foundation and the Sin Represas campaign to help stop the construction of five dams that would compound the free-flowing waters of the wildly beautiful Rio Baker and Rio Pascua rivers in Aysén, flooding nearly 15,000 acres of rare forest ecosystems and some of the most productive agricultural land in the area. The project would have also required transmission lines 1,912-km-long, traversing pristine forests and a seismically active region to transfer the electricity from the dams to serve Chile’s northern cities and its mammoth copper industry, without benefit to those who would have been adversely affected by the dams and transmission lines. Two years after ILCP photographers – including Visionary Wild instructors Jack Dykinga, Jeff Foott, and Daniel Beltrá – completed their intensive coverage and put their compelling pictures into the hands of Sin Represas and the media, the dam projects were put on hold indefinitely.
We’ve teamed up with The Patagonian Foundation again for this expedition. A portion of registration fees from this expedition will be applied by TPF to ongoing conservation campaigns in the Aysén region of Chilean Patagonia, and participants will be invited (but of course not required) to donate use of their images by TPF, to be applied to future conservation communications campaigns with the mission of keeping Patagonia wild.
Hidden Patagonia
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