PATAGONIA is vast and beautiful, and there is a great deal most visitors never see, beyond the most iconic locations like Torres del Paine National Park. While Torres represents a wonderful microcosm of what Patagonia has to offer, Chile’s little-visited Aysén region is home to soaring peaks, pristine lakes, wild turquoise rivers, water-sculpted marble caves, unique forest ecosystems, and numerous glaciers descending from the massive Northern Patagonian Ice Field. It offers the passionate photographer incredible opportunities for landscape, wildlife, and cultural photography, without the tour buses of the more heavily touristed Patagonian destinations. Put simply, the wild serenity, scenic splendor, and photographic potential will amaze you.
We are visiting in the Patagonian spring, when the lupines and other wildflowers are in full bloom, the rivers are roaring, and the high peaks still wear veils of fresh snow. Our trip begins in Balmaceda, Chile (population approximately 500), the location of the regional airport, with direct flights from Chile’s capital of Santiago. You will be met upon exit from baggage claim by our local guide team, headed by our good friend Ruth Cohen, regarded as one of the very best guides in Chilean Patagonia. Then, transfer to Patagonia House, Ruth’s excellent boutique lodge on the outskirts of the regional capital of Coyhaique (population approx. 50,000). We’ll all gather there and then kick off our adventure with a festive welcome dinner to get to know everyone. The next morning after breakfast, we will load up in our two spacious passenger vans, with plenty of extra room for gear and luggage, and proceed on the rest of our journey through the stunning landscape of Aysén. We will take helicopter flights to do aerial photography over the ice cap, a jet boat trip to the face of the Leones Glacier, and an excursion by boat through the fjords. See below for the full itinerary.
Eddie Soloway and Justin Black will lead this small group of passionate photographers (limited to eight guests) on field sessions adapted to make the most of the best opportunities presented to us by light, weather, landscape, and wildlife each day. Emphasis will be on creative photography and hands-on mentoring in the field. We’ll photograph when the conditions and light are their best, and we’ll gather for presentations on composition, visualization, qualities of light, technique, and digital workflow at times when light or weather aren’t as conducive for photography (during harsh mid-day light, if a rain storm passes through, etc.). We will also hold constructive critiques of participant photographs and then head back out into the field to apply what we’ve learned.
Excursions will include helicopter flights (each guest gets one flight) to do doors-off photography over the spectacular Northern Patagonian Ice Field and Monte San Valentin, a jet boat excursion from Lago Leones to the Leones Glacier, a boat excursion to Marble Caves on Lago General Carrera, as well as a day aboard a private expedition boat to visit the fjords and the Jorge Montt Glacier. Via our group vehicles, we’ll visit spectacular locations that we have explored on prior visits. Some locations involve short hikes, but nothing particularly strenuous.
Each evening, we will gather for a nice dinner and some good Chilean wine. Then it’s off to bed to get some rest, as most mornings we’ll be out around 5:30am to take advantage of the incredible pre-dawn light. Breakfasts and lunches will be handled in relation to our photographic activities, served either at our accommodations or local restaurants, or in the field as a gourmet picnic.
Nov 10 – Day 1: Arrive in Coyhaique. After being greeted at the Balmaceda airport you will be transferred about 45 minutes away to the outskirts of the town of Coyhaique, considered by most to be the capital of Patagonia. Check into our group’s boutique lodge, Patagonian House, booked exclusively for our use. Get to know everyone at our festive group dinner.
Nov 11 – Day 2: Today we will make a circuit of the area surrounding Coyhaique to introduce you to the stunning beauty and diverse geography of the region. We will spend a portion of the day at a Huemul reserve (photographing the endangered South Andean Deer) and Condors, and then visit a local ranch with opportunities to capture a day in the life of an active Estancia, followed by a traditional Chilean “asado” barbecue. Overnight in Coyhaique.
Nov 12 – Day 3: Depart for Lago General Carrera, or Chelenko as known by its indigenous name, via the Carretera Austral. Our journey will take us from the edge of the famous Patagonian Steppe over the shoulders of Cerro Castillo, through the deep Valdivian rain forests along the Murta River Valley and into the great basin of snow-capped peaks and azure waters of Lago Chelenko. We will check into our lodge at the lakeside village of Puerto Rio Tranquillo before our next adventure. Time and weather permitting we may have an opportunity to visit the Marble Caves for an evening scout and shoot. Night in Puerto Rio Tranquillo.
Nov 13 – Day 4: Early rise to head west towards the Rio Exploradores and the northern reaches of the San Valentin massif and the northern ice fields to capture morning light. We will also have the opportunity to walk on the glacier itself and do some close-up shots of ice and the moraines. After a short rest back at the lodge we will return to the Marble Caves in the evening for an additional shoot weather depending. Night in Tranquillo.
Nov 14 – Day 5: Today we will head south along the Western shore of Lago Chelenko towards the Leones Valley, the eastern shoulders of Monte San Valentin and the next quaint village of Guadal. Weather permitting we will take an early morning boat trip to the Marble Caves for another look in different light. In the evening we will head to the Maqui for photo ops of evening light, lake and mountainscapes, and a fantastic asado set under the bright stars of Patagonia. Night in Guadal.
Nov 15 – Day 6: Today we will shoot the morning sunrise from locations close to our lodge where we will have expansive views of Lago General Carrera and the many mountain peaks along its shores. We then have breakfast at the lodge before moving on to our day trip to Lago Leones and the Leones glacier by jet boat. Night in Guadal.
Nov 16 – Day 7: This morning will find us shooting the early morning sunrise from the Maqui or similar spots along the lake where we will have incredible views of the lake including San Valentine. We then have a hearty breakfast at the lodge before continuing our journey south deeper into the wild heart of Patagonia. Along the way will encounter the Baker river flowing from its origins, Lago Bertrand and Lago Chelenko. From a distance we will shoot the confluence of the Rio Neff and mighty Baker where the Baker takes it first significant step down through the Baker Canyon before dumping out into Valle Grande on its way south towards the Pacific. After some shots here and in the canyon we will move on to Valle Chacabuco and our next spectacular destination. Night in Valle Chacabuco.
Nov 17 & 18 – Days 8 & 9: We will spend these two days in Valley Chacabuco enjoying time at the many Maulins (wetlands) where waterfowl and Guanaco congregate. Here we should find ample opportunities to catch the famed Andean Condor soaring among the cliffs to the south, and for those of us who have extra patience, we can go to the local Viscacha community to shoot these elusive rock dwellers. Valle Chacabuco was once home to the largest sheep farms in Chilean Patagonia, but is now undergoing an environmental rehabilitation. Under support from Doug Tompkins and many other substantial philanthropy groups, including Patagonia clothing and Conservacion Patagonicas, the ranch and its 400,000 hectares is undergoing a transformation into one of the most beautiful regions of Patagonia, freeing it from fences and invasive species. Both nights in Valle Chacabuco.
Nov 19 – Day 10: Today we will set out for our the southernmost point on our journey, to the quaint village of Caleta Tortel. Along the way we will stop for a picnic before we head south along the shoulders of the towering San Lorenzo Massif, the largest mountain in the region. The culturally significant outpost of Tortel is connected by a system of wooden walkways built of the local Guaitecas Cypress giving it its distinctive feel. It is located at the mouth of the Baker river and will complete our survey of the Baker having visited the origin in Lago Chelenko and now visiting its graduation into the Pacific ocean. Night in Tortel.
Nov 20 – Day 11: Today, we board a comfortable excursion vessel explore the Fjords of the Patagonian Archipelago beyond the outpost of Tortel. This day-long journey will take us to the glacier calving bay of Jorge Montt Glacier. Here we will have ample opportunity to shoot ice and surrounding aquatic environs before heading back to the village of Tortel. Night in Tortel
Nov 21 – Day 12: Today we plan to capture morning light at an area we scouted in advance, and then start our journey north back towards Coyhaique. We will overnight at a lodge on the shores of the Baker River with plenty of opportunities for evening light on the azul waters of the Baker and possibly a repeat visit to the confluence en route. Night on Baker River.
Nov 22 – Day 13: On this, our last full day in Patagonia (for this trip anyway), we will wake early to catch light and then drive north to return to Coyhaique. Along the way, we will make stops to photograph at compelling locations bypassed on the way down. Once in Coyhaique we will check into our comfortable hotel and settle in for a delicious meal. Overnight in Coyhaique.
Nov 23 – Day 14: Fly home. After spending a little time exploring the town of Coyhaique (or shopping for any last-minute souvenirs), we will head out to Balmaceda to catch our flights back to Santiago and home.
PRICING, INCLUSIONS, & EXCLUSIONS
Single-Occupancy Package: $13,500 per person
Double-Occupancy Package: $12,400 per person
Inclusions
Exclusions
In 2010, while Visionary Wild founder Justin Black was serving as Executive Director of the International League of Conservation Photographers, ILCP was approached by The Patagonian Foundation and the Sin Represas campaign to help stop the construction of five dams that would compound the free-flowing waters of the wildly beautiful Rio Baker and Rio Pascua rivers in Aysén, flooding nearly 15,000 acres of globally rare forest ecosystems and some of the most productive agricultural land in the area. The project would have also required transmission lines 1,912-km-long, traversing pristine forests and a seismically active region to transfer the electricity from the dams to serve Chile’s northern cities and its mammoth copper industry, without benefit to those who would have been adversely affected by the dams and transmission lines. Two years after ILCP photographers – including Visionary Wild instructors Jack Dykinga, Jeff Foott, and Daniel Beltrá – completed their intensive coverage and put their compelling pictures into the hands of Sin Represas and the media, the dam projects were put on hold indefinitely.
We’ve teamed up with The Patagonian Foundation again for this expedition. A portion of the proceeds from this expedition will be applied by TPF to ongoing conservation campaigns in the Aysén region of Chilean Patagonia, and participants will be invited (but not required) to donate use of their images by TPF, to be applied to future conservation communications campaigns intended to keep Patagonia wild.
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