Itinerary

This is representative of what we plan to undertake on this trip, though it is subject to change to enable us to take advantage of special opportunities, or respond to weather and other unforeseeable circumstances. Due to the variability of weather and other seasonal conditions, we cannot guarantee any particular landings or locations. We can guarantee that we will do our best to make the most of the opportunities available to us, and deliver a first-rate experience.

Day 1 – Oct 26:  Patagonian Coast – Participants will be met by a driver at the airport in the Argentine city of Trelew (REL), to be transferred on a 45-minute drive to Hotel Pirén in Puerto Vidal, a modern accommodation overlooking the Golfo Nuevo near Peninsula Valdés. There you will meet your leaders Justin Black and Chris Linder, as well as the rest of the group, for an introductory orientation program in the late afternoon, followed by a festive group dinner at one of Puerto Madryn’s finest restaurants. Overnight at Hotel Pirén (D)

Day 2 – Oct 27:  Embarkation and getting under way – After some time to explore town and the waterfront, and a group lunch, we will transfer to the wharf and embark from Puerto Madryn in the afternoon. Golfo Nuevo is renowned for its visiting southern right whales, so we have a good chance of spotting one as we head out of the gulf toward the open ocean. We will be welcomed aboard by the ship’s expedition staff, the Captain, and crew, and settle into quarters before setting out for the remote and wild northwest corner of the Falkland Islands. Aboard Hondius (B,L,D)

Day 3-4 – Oct 28-29: Sea life, sea birds, and making the most of our time at sea. – There’s rarely a lonesome moment as our ship navigates southeast toward the Falklands. Several seabird species follow the vessel, such as albatrosses, storm petrels, shearwaters, and diving petrels. We may encounter dolphins, orcas, and larger whales as well. Meanwhile, we will take this opportunity at sea to ensure everyone is up to speed and ready to photograph productively when we get to the Falklands, with presentations by Chris and Justin, one-on-one assistance with camera set-up and other individual issues/questions, and a constructive review and critique of existing participant photographs. This will also be a great opportunity to get to know one another and the expedition staff, and to meet other passengers onboard. Aboard Hondius (B,L,D)

Days 5-6 – Oct 30-31: The Falkland Islands offer an abundance of wildlife that is easily approachable, though caution and keeping respectful distance is always advised. Made famous as the site of a 1982 war between the UK and Argentina, these islands are otherwise relatively unknown, but they are gems. Not only is this an important breeding ground for various bird species that often form large colonies, but chances are great you’ll see both Peale’s dolphins and Commerson’s dolphins in the surrounding waters.

Day 7-8 – Nov 1-2: Crossing the Antarctic Convergence

At sea: In transit to South Georgia Island, we will cross the Antarctic Convergence, marking the boundary of the Atlantic and the Southern Ocean. The temperature cools considerably within the space of a few hours, and colliding water columns force nutrient-laden water to the surface. This phenomenon attracts a multitude of seabirds near the ship, including several species of albatross, shearwaters, petrels, prions, and skuas. Justin and Chris will deliver presentations intended to inspire and help you take your photography to new levels. We will also conduct another group critique of work made in the preceding days.

Aboard Hondius (B,L,D)

Day 9-15 – Nov 3-9: Exploring South Georgia Island

A full week at South Georgia is a rare privilege, and we’re here to make the most of it. After passing Bird Island we prepare to make our first landing at South Georgia. The selection of landing sites, and the order in which they are visited, will be determined in part by sea and weather conditions. On a past voyage, we unexpectedly made an overnight run all the way down the west side of the island to avoid a storm from the north, beginning our excursions at the southeast end. This led us to ultimately circumnavigate the island, which isn’t typical, as most of the best landing sites are on the north/east side. Every voyage is different.

Sites we might visit include:

Prion Island – This is the home of the great wandering albatrosses. The previous summer’s wandering albatross chicks are almost ready to fledge, and adults are seeking out their old partners after a year and a half at sea. We’ll be fortunate to land here, as the site is only open early in the season.

Salisbury Plain, St. Andrews Bay, Gold Harbour – These sites not only house the three largest king penguin colonies in South Georgia, they are also three of the world’s largest breeding beaches for southern elephant seals. Only during this time of year do they peak in their breeding cycle. Watch the four-ton bulls keep a constant vigil (and occasionally fight) over territories where dozens of females have just given birth or are about to deliver. You can also see a substantial number of Antarctic fur seals here during the breeding season (December – January), but fortunately we will be there when few of the highly territorial and aggressive male fur seals are present.

Fortuna Bay – A beautiful outwash plain from Fortuna Glacier is home to a large number of king penguins and seals. If you like, you may have the chance to hike the final leg of Shackleton’s route to the abandoned whaling village of Stromness. This path cuts across the mountain pass beyond Shackleton’s Waterfall, and as the terrain is partly swampy, be prepared to cross a few small streams.

Leith Harbour, Stromness, Husvik – These sites are a solemn reminder of the scale of the whaling industry in the early 20th century. Elephant and fur seals breed and moult here. Gentoo penguins also occupy the landing sites. Antarctic prions and South Georgia dive petrels may be observed, especially in the area of Husvik.

Grytviken – In this abandoned whaling station, king penguins walk the streets and elephant seals lie around like they own the place – because they basically do. The peeling-paint and rusted detritus of the station’s buildings, machinery, and whale-oil tanks present wonderful photographic opportunities and compositional challenges. The South Georgia Museum is well worth a visit, and we will make a point to visit Shackleton’s grave with a nice bottle of single-malt scotch to toast “The Boss.”

Cobblers Cove, Godthul – At Cobblers Cove we aim for Rookery Point to see macaroni penguins. Light-mantled sooty albatrosses nest along the coastline and giant petrels can be observed as well. Godthul (Norwegian for “good cove”) was named by Norwegian whalers and seal-hunters, and skeletal remains can still be found along the shore line. Beaches are the home of gentoo penguins and seals.

Royal Bay (Moltke Harbour, Will Point & Brisbane Point) – Moltke harbour in Royal Bay was named by the German International Polar Year Expedition in 1882 and some of the remains of their dwellings are still visible. The scenery of Royal Bay is beautiful, with dark sandy beaches and green tussock grass, dominated by the snow-covered Ross Glacier. Zodiac cruising is spectacular here. Approximately 30,000 pairs of king penguins live here.

Cooper Bay – Offers the largest chinstrap penguin population, and gentoo and macaroni penguins are also present. Antarctic terns, white-chinned petrels, blue-eyed shags, and light-mantled sooty albatrosses can be spotted too. This tends to be a very active hunting ground for leopard seals as well.

Drygalski Fjord – offers spectacular landscapes as the soaring walls of the narrow fjord dwarf the ship, with 6,000-foot tall mountain peaks looming overhead.

Annenkov Island – Passing Pickersgill Islands we reach the rarely visited Annenkov Island, first discovered by James Cook in 1775, and later renamed by the Russian expedition of Fabian von Bellingshausen in 1819. It features rocky terrain with a variety of ridges, peaks, and hills where fossils have been found.

King Haakon Bay – British explorer Ernest Shackleton reached King Haakon Bay during his journey of 800 sea-miles from Elephant Island in the open boat “James Caird.” From this landing site, Shackleton, Captain Frank Worsley, and Tom Crean crossed the mountains and glaciers on foot to Stromness to seek help to rescue the rest of their expedition team, left behind at Elephant Island after they had left the Weddell Sea where their ship, Endurance, and been trapped and gradually crushed by the pressure of the pack ice. Elephant seals dominate the beaches. Birdwatchers will look out for South Georgia pipits and Antarctic prions as well as common diving and blue petrels.

 Aboard Hondius (B,L,D)

Day 16-18 – Nov 10-12: Westward bound

Our transit west to Tierra del Fuego will be used well. Photographic possibilities include lingering sea ice and huge Antarctic tabular icebergs broken off from Larsen or Ronne Ice Shelves, on this route, south polar skuas and snow petrels join the other seabirds such as albatrosses and petrels trailing the vessel. The transit will provide valuable time to talk photography and hold a final constructive critique to review the images we’ve made during our week at South Georgia. Justin, Chris, and the ship’s expedition staff will also offer inspiring, informative, and entertaining presentations, and your instructors will make themselves available to answer any lingering questions. Eventually we reach the Beagle Channel named for Charles Darwin’s expedition vessel, where we’ll be greeted by a vast array of seabirds and the southern tip of the Andes mountains.

 Aboard Hondius(B,L,D)

Day 19 – Nov 13: Ushuaia – After a final breakfast aboard Hondius, we will say our farewells and disembark around 9:00am at the world’s southernmost city: Ushuaia, Argentina. A bus transfer will be provided from the ship to the Ushuaia Airport to meet outbound flights. Thus our adventure comes to a close… until next time. (B)

By the way, Ushuaia is a vibrant small city that has some nice boutique hotels, great restaurants, and good shopping, as well as the southernmost ski resort on Earth, Cerro Castor. For those inclined to further travel in Patagonia, it is possible to rent a car in Ushuaia and drive across Tierra del Fuego to Porvenir, take a ferry across the Strait of Magellan to Punta Arenas, Chile, and drive up to Torres del Paine National Park or over to Perito Moreno Glacier and Fitz Roy on the Argentine side.