Join us for this all-inclusive expedition to the crown jewel of the sub-Antarctic
at the best time of year
Designed for photographers by photographers, this expedition to the Falklands and South Georgia Island will be led by Justin Black and Chris Linder. We will take you to the places we love and that will allow us to make the most of the Southern Ocean’s greatest wildlife spectacle, based on our combined experience.
Our expedition vessel, M/V Hondius, is a 353-foot, Polar Class 6 (Ice Class 1A-Super) expedition ship operated by Oceanwide Expeditions, with accommodations for up to 170 in 80 very comfortable and well-appointed cabins and suites (Hondius is the virtually identical sister ship of M/V Janssonius, which was originally scheduled for this itinerary). On this early-season voyage, we are not expecting the ship to be full – it is likely that only 120 passengers will be onboard, and our groups will be largely autonomous on shore and during Zodiac cruises (private Zodiacs will be available to our groups). Hondius is a new ship completed in May 2019, with modern appointments and all the benefits of 21st-century ship design. We have chosen to join Hondius with two small groups, limited to nine guests each, as this voyage offers a very rare full week at South Georgia Island at the very best time of year, and Hondius serves as an excellent platform for our operations. Her crew and expedition staff are being selected from among Oceanwide’s most experienced sailors and guides (Justin has personally requested that expedition staff he knows and trusts be assigned to this voyage), she is designed and built to be quite comfortable and capable in the Southern Ocean, and her water-level Zodiac boarding facilities are of modern design for ease and efficiency of loading and unloading. Hondius’s dedicated lecture room will be available to us for private presentations and group image critiques. Our group size offers a degree of intimacy that makes for superior interactions and experience for everyone, both aboard and on shore. For those seeking to be guided by two preeminent nature photographers – both of whom are certified Antarctic guides and highly regarded as generous and effective teachers at the top of their field – to the best locations in South Georgia and the Falklands, and who don’t mind a little luxury along with a world-class photographic adventure, there is no better trip.
Our expedition begins in the Patagonian town of Puerto Madryn, Argentina, on the Golfo Nuevo, adjacent to Peninsula Valdés – famous for its large local population of orcas that have learned how to pluck sea lion and elephant seal pups right off the beach (and they happen to be actively beach hunting in October if you want to plan to spend some time there in advance of our trip). We will welcome the group with an introductory reception at the hotel and dinner at one of the town’s best restaurants. After a restful night at Hotel Pirén, we head to the wharf, where our ship awaits. Once at sea, the decks of the Hondius provide a great vantage point for sightings of Commerson’s dolphins, southern right whales, and multitudes of seabirds. On our first full day of the trip, we plan to offer some informative and inspirational presentations to get you ready for what lies ahead, and ensure everyone is up to speed and ready to photograph effectively and productively. Our first planned excursion is a visit to one of the largest breeding colonies of black-browed albatrosses in the world, numbering around 200,000 pairs, on Steeple Jason Island. At nearby Saunders Island, colonies of rockhopper, king, and gentoo penguins await us as well. Several other islands in the west Falklands – Carcass and Westpoint are two of our favorites – provide lots of good options. As always, weather, wind, and sea conditions may dictate our exact landing sites.
After our visit to the Falklands, we set out for South Georgia. Along the way, we are likely to encounter dolphins riding the ship’s bow wave, and whale sightings are common. As we approach South Georgia, we’ll pass Shag Rocks, a group of six small but prominent rocky islands covered in bird colonies. South Georgia itself is a tremendously rugged island of towering mountains covered in immense glaciers. Its shoreline hosts extraordinary gatherings of penguins and pelagic birds such as albatrosses: wandering, grey-headed, light-mantled sooty, black-browed, and royal, as well as southern elephant seals and Antarctic fur seals. In spring, currents of krill sweep up from the Weddell Sea, providing food for one of the planet’s greatest wildlife concentrations. In addition to the vast colony of 250,000 king penguins at Salisbury Plain, we plan to visit a colony of yellow-crested macaroni penguins at Cooper Bay, the historic whaling base of Grytviken, and more, photographing sublime landscapes too along the way.
We’ve chosen to let go of Antarctica itself on this trip, in favor of focusing our time on the best concentrations of wildlife in the entire sub-Antarctic region. The timing of our trip during southern spring means South Georgia looks its best: the penguin colonies are as clean as they ever are, and fresh snow still blankets the mountains looming just inland.
Learn as we travel, with instruction throughout by Justin and Chris, who are both passionate about sharing their expertise and knowledge of photography and of these places, both in the field and onboard. Ship’s expedition staff will provide additional interpretation of natural and human history in these islands, as well as highly experienced and professional guide services.
Hondius: Our new expedition vessel provides an excellent platform for this voyage, in part due to her strength, high degree of comfort at sea, efficient Zodiac operations, excellent vantage points, speed (15-knots), and energy efficiency. Those who appreciate small-group travel will enjoy the participant limit of two sub-groups of nine each. Everyone will have excellent access to leaders and expedition staff, landing operations are highly efficient, and we’ll be able to get to know one another well.
Purpose-built as a polar expedition ship (Polar Class 6 / Ice Rating 1A-Super), Hondius offers an excellent balance of capability, functionality, and comfort. She offers very comfortable, well-equipped, stylish, clean, well-maintained cabins that offer ample room for you and your gear, as well as roomy and well-appointed spaces for presentations by trip leaders, informal gatherings, and group meals. Superb expedition support includes a fleet of fifteen full-size zodiacs, highly experienced expedition staff, and a top-notch crew, who welcome guests on the ship’s spacious bridge. Outside areas on the ship provide excellent platforms at various levels for photographing marine fauna, icebergs, and the seascape. Hondius gets the green seal of approval as well. She uses LED lighting, steam heating, bio-degradable paints and lubricants, and state-of-the-art power management systems that keep fuel consumption and CO2 levels minimal. Traveling aboard Hondius, we impact the fragile ecosystems we encounter as little as possible.
We are coordinating with Hondius’s executive chef to develop a menu offering meals that are tasty, wholesome, and satisfying, with emphasis on fresh ingredients and healthy options. We are assembling an excellent wine list for the trip as well!
This is representative of what we plan to undertake on this trip, though it is subject to change to enable us to take advantage of special opportunities, or respond to weather and other unforeseeable circumstances. Due to the variability of weather and other seasonal conditions, we cannot guarantee any particular landings or locations. We can guarantee that we will do our best to make the most of the opportunities available to us, and deliver a first-rate experience.
Day 1 – Oct 26: Patagonian Coast – Participants will be met by a driver at the airport in the Argentine city of Trelew (REL), to be transferred on a 45-minute drive to Hotel Pirén in Puerto Vidal, a modern accommodation overlooking the Golfo Nuevo near Peninsula Valdés. There you will meet your leaders Justin Black and Chris Linder, as well as the rest of the group, for an introductory orientation program in the late afternoon, followed by a festive group dinner at one of Puerto Madryn’s finest restaurants. Overnight at Hotel Pirén (D)
Day 2 – Oct 27: Embarkation and getting under way – After some time to explore town and the waterfront, and a group lunch, we will transfer to the wharf and embark from Puerto Madryn in the afternoon. Golfo Nuevo is renowned for its visiting southern right whales, so we have a good chance of spotting one as we head out of the gulf toward the open ocean. We will be welcomed aboard by the ship’s expedition staff, the Captain, and crew, and settle into quarters before setting out for the remote and wild northwest corner of the Falkland Islands. Aboard Hondius (B,L,D)
Day 3-4 – Oct 28-29: Sea life, sea birds, and making the most of our time at sea. – There’s rarely a lonesome moment as our ship navigates southeast toward the Falklands. Several seabird species follow the vessel, such as albatrosses, storm petrels, shearwaters, and diving petrels. We may encounter dolphins, orcas, and larger whales as well. Meanwhile, we will take this opportunity at sea to ensure everyone is up to speed and ready to photograph productively when we get to the Falklands, with presentations by Chris and Justin, one-on-one assistance with camera set-up and other individual issues/questions, and a constructive review and critique of existing participant photographs. This will also be a great opportunity to get to know one another and the expedition staff, and to meet other passengers onboard. Aboard Hondius (B,L,D)
Days 5-6 – Oct 30-31: The Falkland Islands offer an abundance of wildlife that is easily approachable, though caution and keeping respectful distance is always advised. Made famous as the site of a 1982 war between the UK and Argentina, these islands are otherwise relatively unknown, but they are gems. Not only is this an important breeding ground for various bird species that often form large colonies, but chances are great you’ll see both Peale’s dolphins and Commerson’s dolphins in the surrounding waters.
During this segment of the voyage, we focus on visiting the following two sites:
Steeple Jason – Home to the world’s largest black-browed albatross colony (roughly 113,000), Steeple Jason is a wild and rarely visited island buffeted by wind and waves. Weather and swell conditions dictate the journey here. On our two prior voyages, we have not been able to land at Steeple Jason – third time’s a charm, and it’s certainly worth a try!
Carcass Island – Despite its name, this island is pleasantly rodent-free and hence bounteous with birdlife and many endemic species. Anything from breeding Magellanic and gentoo penguins to numerous waders and passerine birds (including Cobb’s wrens and tussock-birds) live here.
Other sites that we may visit as an alternative depending on conditions of sea and weather:
Saunders Island – On Saunders Island you can see the black-browed albatross and its sometimes-clumsy landings, along with breeding imperial shags and rockhopper penguins. King penguins, Magellanic penguins, and gentoos are also found here.
Westpoint Island – Landing in a small cove near the island’s one-family settlement, you will be able to take a walk through the tussock grass to an abundant and dramatically positioned breeding colony of black-browed albatrosses where they live side-by-side with rockhopper penguins.
Grave Cove – Nesting gentoo penguins and excellent hiking opportunities abound here, with the chance to enjoy the scenery and wildlife that the island has to offer.
Day 7-8 – Nov 1-2: Crossing the Antarctic Convergence
At sea: In transit to South Georgia Island, we will cross the Antarctic Convergence, marking the boundary of the Atlantic and the Southern Ocean. The temperature cools considerably within the space of a few hours, and colliding water columns force nutrient-laden water to the surface. This phenomenon attracts a multitude of seabirds near the ship, including several species of albatross, shearwaters, petrels, prions, and skuas. Justin and Chris will deliver presentations intended to inspire and help you take your photography to new levels. We will also conduct another group critique of work made in the preceding days.
Aboard Hondius (B,L,D)
Day 9-15 – Nov 3-9: Exploring South Georgia Island
A full week at South Georgia is a rare privilege, and we’re here to make the most of it. After passing Bird Island we prepare to make our first landing at South Georgia. The selection of landing sites, and the order in which they are visited, will be determined in part by sea and weather conditions. On a past voyage, we unexpectedly made an overnight run all the way down the west side of the island to avoid a storm from the north, beginning our excursions at the southeast end. This led us to ultimately circumnavigate the island, which isn’t typical, as most of the best landing sites are on the north/east side. Every voyage is different.
Sites we might visit include:
Prion Island – This is the home of the great wandering albatrosses. The previous summer’s wandering albatross chicks are almost ready to fledge, and adults are seeking out their old partners after a year and a half at sea. We’ll be fortunate to land here, as the site is only open early in the season.
Salisbury Plain, St. Andrews Bay, Gold Harbour – These sites not only house the three largest king penguin colonies in South Georgia, they are also three of the world’s largest breeding beaches for southern elephant seals. Only during this time of year do they peak in their breeding cycle. Watch the four-ton bulls keep a constant vigil (and occasionally fight) over territories where dozens of females have just given birth or are about to deliver. You can also see a substantial number of Antarctic fur seals here during the breeding season (December – January), but fortunately we will be there when few of the highly territorial and aggressive male fur seals are present.
Fortuna Bay – A beautiful outwash plain from Fortuna Glacier is home to a large number of king penguins and seals. If you like, you may have the chance to hike the final leg of Shackleton’s route to the abandoned whaling village of Stromness. This path cuts across the mountain pass beyond Shackleton’s Waterfall, and as the terrain is partly swampy, be prepared to cross a few small streams.
Leith Harbour, Stromness, Husvik – These sites are a solemn reminder of the scale of the whaling industry in the early 20th century. Elephant and fur seals breed and moult here. Gentoo penguins also occupy the landing sites. Antarctic prions and South Georgia dive petrels may be observed, especially in the area of Husvik.
Grytviken – In this abandoned whaling station, king penguins walk the streets and elephant seals lie around like they own the place – because they basically do. The peeling-paint and rusted detritus of the station’s buildings, machinery, and whale-oil tanks present wonderful photographic opportunities and compositional challenges. The South Georgia Museum is well worth a visit, and we will make a point to visit Shackleton’s grave with a nice bottle of single-malt scotch to toast “The Boss.”
Cobblers Cove, Godthul – At Cobblers Cove we aim for Rookery Point to see macaroni penguins. Light-mantled sooty albatrosses nest along the coastline and giant petrels can be observed as well. Godthul (Norwegian for “good cove”) was named by Norwegian whalers and seal-hunters, and skeletal remains can still be found along the shore line. Beaches are the home of gentoo penguins and seals.
Royal Bay (Moltke Harbour, Will Point & Brisbane Point) – Moltke harbour in Royal Bay was named by the German International Polar Year Expedition in 1882 and some of the remains of their dwellings are still visible. The scenery of Royal Bay is beautiful, with dark sandy beaches and green tussock grass, dominated by the snow-covered Ross Glacier. Zodiac cruising is spectacular here. Approximately 30,000 pairs of king penguins live here.
Cooper Bay – Offers the largest chinstrap penguin population, and gentoo and macaroni penguins are also present. Antarctic terns, white-chinned petrels, blue-eyed shags, and light-mantled sooty albatrosses can be spotted too. This tends to be a very active hunting ground for leopard seals as well.
Drygalski Fjord – offers spectacular landscapes as the soaring walls of the narrow fjord dwarf the ship, with 6,000-foot tall mountain peaks looming overhead.
Annenkov Island – Passing Pickersgill Islands we reach the rarely visited Annenkov Island, first discovered by James Cook in 1775, and later renamed by the Russian expedition of Fabian von Bellingshausen in 1819. It features rocky terrain with a variety of ridges, peaks, and hills where fossils have been found.
King Haakon Bay – British explorer Ernest Shackleton reached King Haakon Bay during his journey of 800 sea-miles from Elephant Island in the open boat “James Caird.” From this landing site, Shackleton, Captain Frank Worsley, and Tom Crean crossed the mountains and glaciers on foot to Stromness to seek help to rescue the rest of their expedition team, left behind at Elephant Island after they had left the Weddell Sea where their ship, Endurance, and been trapped and gradually crushed by the pressure of the pack ice. Elephant seals dominate the beaches. Birdwatchers will look out for South Georgia pipits and Antarctic prions as well as common diving and blue petrels.
Aboard Hondius (B,L,D)
Day 16-18 – Nov 10-12: Westward bound
Our transit west to Tierra del Fuego will be used well. Photographic possibilities include lingering sea ice and huge Antarctic tabular icebergs broken off from Larsen or Ronne Ice Shelves, on this route, south polar skuas and snow petrels join the other seabirds such as albatrosses and petrels trailing the vessel. The transit will provide valuable time to talk photography and hold a final constructive critique to review the images we’ve made during our week at South Georgia. Justin, Chris, and the ship’s expedition staff will also offer inspiring, informative, and entertaining presentations, and your instructors will make themselves available to answer any lingering questions. Eventually we reach the Beagle Channel named for Charles Darwin’s expedition vessel, where we’ll be greeted by a vast array of seabirds and the southern tip of the Andes mountains.
Aboard Hondius(B,L,D)
Day 19 – Nov 13: Ushuaia – After a final breakfast aboard Hondius, we will say our farewells and disembark around 9:00am at the world’s southernmost city: Ushuaia, Argentina. A bus transfer will be provided from the ship to the Ushuaia Airport to meet outbound flights. Thus our adventure comes to a close… until next time. (B)
By the way, Ushuaia is a vibrant small city that has some nice boutique hotels, great restaurants, and good shopping, as well as the southernmost ski resort on Earth, Cerro Castor. For those inclined to further travel in Patagonia, it is possible to rent a car in Ushuaia and drive across Tierra del Fuego to Porvenir, take a ferry across the Strait of Magellan to Punta Arenas, Chile, and drive up to Torres del Paine National Park or over to Perito Moreno Glacier and Fitz Roy on the Argentine side.
CURRENT AVAILABILITY:
CABIN CLASSES AND COSTS
All cabins have windows or portholes for views and additional light, and all have private en-suite showers and toilets. All cabins are cleaned daily.
Grand Suite with Private Balcony (Deck 7): $21,200 per person double-occupancy (one bed); $36,040 single-occupancy
One double bed, one double window, sofa, private balcony, private shower & toilet, flatscreen TV, desk & chair, telephone and WiFi (supplemented), refrigerator, coffee & tea maker, bathrobe, hair dryer, cabinet, wardrobe, upgraded decor.
SIZE: 290 sq. ft.
Junior Suite (Deck 7): $18,500 per person double-occupancy (one bed); $31,450 single-occupancy
One double bed, one double window, sofa, private shower & toilet, flatscreen TV, desk & chair, telephone and WiFi (supplemented), refrigerator, coffee & tea maker, bathrobe, hair dryer, cabinet, wardrobe, upgraded decor.
SIZE: Approx. 204-215 sq. ft.
Superior (Deck 6): $17,450 per person double-occupancy (one bed); $29,665 single-occupancy
One double bed, two windows, sofa, private bathroom with shower & toilet, flatscreen TV, desk & chair, telephone and WiFi (supplemented), refrigerator, coffee & tea maker, bathrobe, hair dryer, cabinet, wardrobe
SIZE: Approx. 215 – 226 sq. ft.
Twin Deluxe (Deck 6): $16,300 per person double-occupancy; $27,710 single-occupancy
Two single beds, two windows, sofa, private bathroom with shower & toilet, flatscreen TV, desk & chair, telephone & WiFi (supplemented), refrigerator, coffee & tea maker, bathrobe, hair dryer, cabinet, wardrobe
SIZE: Approx. 210 sq. ft.
Twin Window (Deck 4): $15,350 per person double-occupancy; $26,095 single-occupancy
Two single beds, one window, small sofa, private shower & toilet, flatscreen TV, desk & chair, telephone & WiFi (supplemented), hair dryer, cabinet, wardrobe. Note: Please be aware that the view from some windows may be partially obstructed due to design requirements of the ship.
SIZE: Approx. 128 – 150 sq. ft.
Twin Porthole (Deck 3): $14,650 per person double-occupancy; $24,905 single-occupancy
Two single beds, two portholes, small sofa, private shower & toilet, flatscreen TV, desk & chair, telephone & WiFi (supplemented), hair dryer, cabinet, wardrobe.
SIZE: Approx. 129 – 193 sq. ft.
PRICING AND PAYMENT SCHEDULE
Prices are for an all-inclusive package, based on cabin classes. The payment schedule for this expedition is:
Please note that all payments for this expedition are non-refundable. All other terms and conditions apply.
INDIVIDUALS BOOKING DOUBLE OCCUPANCY
Traveling alone? Feel free to book at the lower double-occupancy rates in any of the cabins with twin beds, so long as you are content to be paired with another ship’s guest of the same gender (roommate may not be a part of our group).
Not Included:
As both our November 2016 and 2018 South Georgia – Falklands expeditions drew to a close, we hosted charity auctions aboard our vessel in support of vital conservation work by South Georgia Heritage Trust. Recently, this has included a large-scale initiative to eradicate invasive rats, which appears to have been successful in eliminating every single rat from the island, radically improving conditions for many bird species that nest there.
Items auctioned included limited edition prints and books, various South Georgia souvenirs (sorry, no penguins allowed), and two copies of a detailed South Georgia map, signed by the photo leaders, expedition staff, and the ship’s captain, and key members of the crew. The maps alone fetched $2,000 each. The two prior auctions have raised a total of $68,000 for conservation on South Georgia Island. We’ll see what we can do in 2024!
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